Lucien Bérardini

Personal Info

Known For

Acting

Known Credits

0.2885

Gender

Male

Birthday

24-Sep-1930

Age

(96 years old)

Place of Birth

Martigues, France

Also Known As
  • Lucien Berardini

Lucien Bérardini

Biography

Lucien Bérardini, born September 24, 1930 in Martigues and died October 13, 2005 in Montpellier, was a French mountaineer. Lucien Bérardini learned the art of climbing on the rocks of the forest of Fontainebleau then on the cliffs of Saussois. Faced with aristocratic mountaineering with personalities such as Henri de Ségogne, and professional mountaineering of which the guides are the emblematic figure, a new form of amateur mountaineering stemming from the Parisian popular circles is developing: "rogue" mountaineering. ". The Robert Paragot-Lucien Bérardini team is the most striking illustration of this. Insolent, iconoclastic, non-conformist, they symbolize the post-war climbers of modest origin who, making fun of conventions and rules, overthrew the stereotypes of the “perfect mountaineer”. Bold, tenacious, driven by a tremendous desire to be and to surpass themselves, Lucien Bérardini and Robert Paragot have found in climbing the way to release their energy. He entered the circle of great mountaineers by making the first ascent of the west face of Les Drus on July 19, 1952 in the company of Guido Magnone, Adrien Dagory and Marcel Lainé, with intensive use of artificial climbing. The same year he completed the first route without a bivouac on the Walker spur (4,208 m, the highest point of the Grandes Jorasses), in the company of Michel Dufranc. In 1953 he opened a route to the south-east face of Mont Mallet, then the following year he was part of a French expedition to the south face of Aconcagua, a 6,962-metre summit located in Argentina. This expedition, led by René Ferlet, also includes Guy Poulet, Robert Paragot, Pierre Lesueur, Edmond Denis and Adrien Dagory. This enterprise was a success, but the harsh conditions of the ascent and the bad weather caused Lucien Bérardini severe frostbite on his hands and feet, which necessitated amputations. It was with his friend Robert Paragot that he nevertheless returned to the summits. This rope, which has become famous, will succeed in many firsts in the Dolomites or the Mont-Blanc Massif, such as the north face of the Grand Capucin in 1955. Bérardini was not a guide, but he liked to lead the way, to open the way. Take his friends Pierre Mazeaud and Robert Paragot to climb the Jonte gorges again this summer. Introduce young people to climbing on the cliffs of the Cévennes. He did not like labels either, but there is one that he willingly let himself stick to, that of professional climber, spokesperson, he laughed recently, of "France from below on the summits".


Credits

Hoggar Hoggar (1959) Character: Self
A 1959 documentary about climbing in the Hoggar Mountains of Algeria. For the first time, a mountain expedition was organized for 60 young aspiring climbers, accompanied by renowned mountaineers such as Lionel Terray, Lucien Bérardini, Maurice Herzog, and Jean-Paul Gardinier. In two weeks, dozens of new routes, often extremely difficult, were established. Jacques Ertaud's camera followed the climbers through all the challenging sections of the first ascent of the south spur of Assekrem.
Aventure à Bleau Aventure à Bleau (1980) Character: Self (archive footage)
Adventure in Bleau is a documentary about bouldering that takes place in Fontainebleau. Directed by Jean-Paul Janssen in 1980 and produced by Antenne 2, it is part of the series "Les Carnets de l'Aventure" and broadcast on the same television channel. It features different generations of the finest free climbing artists of the time: Patrick Edlinger, Catherine Destivelle, Lucien Bérardini, Jean Pierre Bouvier, and Bertrand Roche 'Zébulon'.
Paragot-Bérardini, La Cordée des Voyous Paragot-Bérardini, La Cordée des Voyous (1997) Character: Self
Paragot and Bérardini: two climbers who fill all climbing enthusiasts with admiration. In Fontainebleau, Saussois, the Alps, the Andes, the Himalayas, and all over the world, they have left their names attached to the most difficult routes and the most prestigious peaks. Here, they recount only the climbs they completed together: famous expeditions to Aconcagua and Huascarán, firsts in the Alps and the Dolomites. An unwavering friendship, comical and tragic adventures—this is what they share with us in the warm atmosphere of their memories. "La Cordée des Voyous" will be included in Jean Afanassieff's film "La Grande Cordée," which deals with post-war proletarian mountaineering.
Guido Magnone - L'Artiste Guido Magnone - L'Artiste (1997) Character: Self (Archive footage)
Guido Magnone designs cardboard boxes by hand for his parents' small business. A painter friend loves his brushwork and pushes him to attend the Beaux Arts. He takes an external competition, wins it, befriends the sculptors César and Féraud, surrealists, a handful of bohemians. He then discovered the mountain and quickly became one of the best climbers of his generation. He made prestigious conquests such as the west face of the Drus in the Alps, the first ascents of Fitz Roy in Patagonia with Lionel Terray or Makalu in the Himalayas... Magnone also participated in the creation of the UCPA and will be president of the Groupe de Haute Montagne from 1961 to 1965. From 1977, Guido returned to his first passion: sculpture, to devote himself fully to it around 1990. He began to exhibit again in 1996. In 2002, he exhibited his sculptures in Paris , Bourg-la-Reine, Aosta then in Etroubles in 2009.
Anatomie d'une Première Anatomie d'une Première (1966) Character: Self
In February 1966, Pierre Mazeaud and Lucien Berardini traveled to the Atakor massif, in the Hoggar mountain range of the Sahara in southern Algeria. There, they attempted a challenging first ascent: the Takouba spur, one of the peaks adjacent to Garet El Djenoun, a legendary mountain in the Hoggar massif, first climbed by Roger Frison-Roche and Raymond Coche in 1935. The documentary, superbly filmed by Jacques Ertaud, won the Grand Prize at the Trento International Mountain Film Festival in 1966.
Le Ruffian Le Ruffian (1983) Character: Doublure Lino Ventura
The adventures of a group of friends who plan to recover crates full of gold from a fall in Canada.
Parce Que La Montagne Était Là Parce Que La Montagne Était Là (1971) Character: Self
On May 23, 1971, a French expedition led by Robert Paragot successfully climbed Makalu via its west pillar. Makalu is one of the five highest peaks in the world, located in the Himalayas on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. Jean-Pierre Janssen and Lucien Bérardini filmed this expedition, where Robert Paragot spoke about the expedition conditions, life at altitude, and his state of mind as expedition leader. On the return to base camp, Jean-Pierre Janssen interviewed Lucien Berardini, Georges Payot, Jean-Claude Mosca, François Guillot, and Jean-Paul Paris, all of whom played a key role in bringing Bernard Mellet and Yannick Seigneur to the summit. Expedition members: Robert Paragot (expedition leader), Georges Payot, Yannick Seigneur, Claude Jager, Jean-Claude Mosca, François Guillot, Bernard Mellet, Lucien Bérardini, Jean-Paul Paris, Robert Jacob, Jacques Marchal (surgeon).
Aconcagua Aconcagua (1991) Character: Self
History of the first ascent of Aconcagua by the south face in February 1954 by the French shock team led by René Ferlet and composed of Lucien Bérardini, Adrien Dagory, Edmond Denis, Pierre Lesueur, Robert Paragot and Guy Poulet. In seven days of combat, they extricate themselves from the mountain in a pitiful state; all except Robert Paragot will be victims of severe frostbite which earned them amputations, some important as for “Lulu” Bérardini who lost part of his left hand.
Makalu 8481m - Pilier Ouest Makalu 8481m - Pilier Ouest (1971) Character: Self
The French Alpine Club's film about the French expedition to conquer Makalu (8481m) via the west pillar in Nepal, which began on February 24, 1971. Composed of 11 mountaineers, Robert Paragot (expedition leader), Georges Payot, Lucien Berardini, Yannick Seigneur, Claude Jager, Jean-Paul Paris, Jean-Claude Mosca, François Guillot, Bernard Mellet, Robert Jacob and Jacques Marchal (surgeon), it took twenty-five days of walking on the Himalayan trails with 460 porters and 18 Sherpas to transport 14 tons of equipment to reach the base camp. Finally, it was Mellet and Seigneur who managed to reach the summit on May 23, 1971: 8481 m, temperature - 30°, oxygen 30%, no wind.
Victoires sur l'Himalaya Victoires sur l'Himalaya (1960) Character: Self
Retrospective of four major peaks climbed by French expeditions: Annapurna (8078m) in 1950; Makalu (8481m) in 1955; Mustagh Tower (7273m) in 1956 and Le Jannu (7710m) in 1962. A film by Lucien Berardini and Jean-Marie Perthus with the support of the French Alpine Club and the FFME (French Mountain and Climbing Federation).
Pierre Mazeaud, la vie en face(s) Pierre Mazeaud, la vie en face(s) (2013) Character: Self (archive footage)
Pierre Mazeau has managed to unite three of his passions which seem to have nothing in common, at a very high level: mountaineering, jurisprudence and policy. The Everest mountaineer, rescued from the Freney Pillar, the passionate jurist, the former sports minister, privy counsellor, and president of the French Constitutional Court is a charismatic personality. This sensitive film portrait follows a line, which Pierre Mazeaud himself has quoted: “Alpinism belongs to those who provide themselves with means to reach their goals, to those who are fully committed to a goal, to those, who know the value of solidarity of men, and to those who are aware that true human existence can only be fulfilled by proceeding with a team of roped-partners.”
Verdon-Saussois 1983 Verdon-Saussois 1983 (1983) Character: Self
In 1983, the French Mountain Federation (FFM) organized a landmark climbing gathering in Saussois and the Verdon, bringing together generations of the greatest climbers of the time, including Patrick Edlinger, Jean-Claude Droyer, Jerry Moffatt, Jean-Claude Droyer, Robert Paragot, Lucien Bérardini, Ron Fawcett, Jean-Pierre Bouvier, and other major figures. This event symbolized the emergence of modern sport climbing as a practice in its own right in France, with the liberation of legendary routes and the rise of freestyle climbing, notably under the leadership of Droyer and Edlinger. This gathering was a key moment in the dissemination of the freestyle ethic and the evolution of grading, while Saussois and the Verdon were at the forefront of high difficulty in the world.
La Voie Terray La Voie Terray (2007) Character: Self
Terray. This name sounds like a challenge and evokes deep respect in the memory of every mountaineer. For all, Lionel Terray remains forever the "Conqueror of the useless", the example of a generous and mature mountaineer, far from any egocentrism and any ambition. Not only a pioneer and witness to the history of mountaineering, Terray is also remembered as a man and a master more than an athlete. Forty years after the tragic death of this extraordinary mountaineer and guide, who liked to think of himself as a "simple mountaineer", his former friends and the youngest generation of mountaineers come together in this film to celebrate and remember his legacy.
Guido Magnone - Le Baladeur Guido Magnone - Le Baladeur (2008) Character: Self
Guido Magnone's incredible adventure begins strangely on the banks of the Ourcq canal among a group of kids who dream of swimming. Guido, the solitary son of "rital", dives to get noticed, succeeds, takes a liking to it, breaks his first record, collects medals. At the same time, he draws, attends the Beaux-Arts, is accepted with open arms and befriends the sculptors César and Féraud. At the end of the war, during a health stay in Chamonix, it is love at first sight for the mountains, climbing. Guido's ascent is now dizzying. He stormed the west face of the Drus, then the Fitzroy and the Tour de Mustagh, summits reputed to be impossible. He rubs shoulders with the greatest, Lionel Terray, Maurice Herzog, and participates in the Makalu expedition, camera in hand, or those of Jannu and Chacraraju. Later, in his fifties, Guido hangs up the carabiners and participates in the foundation of the UCPA
Tant que nous l'aimerons Tant que nous l'aimerons (1957) Character: Self
Lucien Berardini and Edmond Denis are two mountaineers who took part in the French expedition to Aconcagua (Andes Mountains) in 1954. Both suffered severe frostbite to their fingers and toes, and three years later, they set out to climb the Aiguille du Géant, a legendary route in the Mont Blanc massif. The camera closely follows the efforts of the roped party, an example of strength and self-sacrifice, until their victorious arrival at the summit.
Paragot Par Paragot Paragot Par Paragot (2020) Character: Self (archive footage)
Robert Paragot, a mountaineering legend, was also a great Bleausard. In addition to his far-flung alpine-style expeditions (the south face of Aconcagua, Tour de Mustagh, Jannu), he is the very image of the modest city dweller who devoted himself passionately to high-level mountaineering. Like any good Parisian climber, Robert Paragot began his climbing career in the Fontainebleau forest. A true rock school where he would open several boulders. His son, Christophe Paragot, paid tribute to him, a year after his death, by climbing all the boulders opened by his father in Fontainebleau in the same day. He tells us about an era, a spirit, an emblematic place through his memories and some delightful anecdotes. Far from spectacular images and sporting exploits, this film speaks of a passion, a story of climbing that was made accessible to all. In memory of a great name in mountaineering who, from the modest blocks of the forest, climbed to the highest peaks in the world.



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